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Underwear and
Lingerie

Part One
4Ma '

TO THE STUDENT:

The beginner in sewing, concerned with
the straightness of seams and the accuracy
of finishes, finds the problem of making
underwear one that makes possible the
accomplishment of her desires without
too much effort. The more experienced
seamstress, for whom the details of sew-
ing have become second nature, has in
this work a means of expressing original-
ity as well as a display of skill.. To both,
this book will bring helpful ideas, and to
both it goes with the assurance that any
effort expended whole-heartedly in its
mastery and application will be repaid to
the fullest extent.

The Author.

Copyr^gfitJ 1955, by International Educational Publishing Compa
* * * 'Copyright in Great Britain. All fights reserved
Printed in U. S. A.

UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE

(PART 1)

ADVANTAGES OF MAKING UNDERWEAR

1. Feminine Appeal. — A certain essentially feminine charm is
always associated with the cutting and sewing of the dainty mate-
rials used for lingerie, and this quality, combined with the practi-
cability of making one's own undergarments, and the individuality
possible when this is done, gives this part of sewing an appeal
difficult to resist. Any objections that arise to discourage the woman
who has never done work of this kind should be overcome, for there
is real satisfaction resulting from the development of perfect -fitting,
attractive undergarments, not to mention the saving effected and
the opportunity presented for the expression of one's individual taste,

2. Characteristics of Satisfactory Underwear. — Daintiness,
absolute freshness, and simplicity should be the keynote of all
lingerie. At the same time, it should be remembered that under-
garments must be carefully fitted and correctly designed in order
that outer garments may be properly effective. To be well-groomed,
it is necessary that undergarments be in keeping with outer garments,
since there is nothing that adds so much to a woman's feeling of
assurance and poise as the knowledge that she is correctly dressed
in every detail.

The saying, ''The art of being well-dressed is not so much a matter
of expense as of discrimination," holds true in connection with
lingerie, as well as in the choice of dresses, suits, and wraps. Even
the most inexpensive undergarments, if carefully chosen, will express
as much refinement, good taste, and common sense as the most
elaborate and expensive ones, and, no matter how meager may be
her purse, every woman can have dainty, neat, well-fitting lingerie
if she chooses her materials carefully and her designs wisely, and
does her sewing skilfully.

§4

2 UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE § 4

3. Economy. — It is a recognized fact that most ready-to-wear
garments can be duplicated by the home sewer at a definite lower-
ing of costs, provided, of course, all materials are available. In the
case of lingerie, there is no difficulty in procuring any of the suitable
fabrics; in fact, not only can the materials be duplicated, but often
more satisfactory ones can be obtained without bringing the cost
of the article up to the purchasing price of the same garment in a
shop.

The question of time must enter into the calculation, but the
simplicity of the methods and the amount of finishing that can be
accomplished in one's leisure moments make it possible to lessen, an
appreciable amount, the actual time necessary for the cutting and
the stitching of the seams, provided machine stitching is used, the
finishing serving as pleasant, spare-time "hand-work. When leisure
time is limited, however, it is best to plan for a definite period and
practically complete the garment with machine sewing.

4. Individuality. — Frequently the figure, color type, or age
limits the choice of material and design for outer garments to such an
extent that very little variation is possible. When this is the case,
the woman who sews can indulge her love of beauty to its fullest
extent in the underwear she develops, obtaining just as much satis-
faction from the wearing of it as if it were possible to emphasize the
same features in her dresses, suits, and coats.

Then, for the woman who expresses the last degree of smartness
and unusualness in her outer clothing, there is the desire to duplicate
this same smartness in everything she wears, making it equally
necessary for her to plan lingerie that is distinctive and will provide
a proper foundation for the effect she wishes to attain.

There is also the opportunity for the creation of something of
beauty or of service or the two combined, which are elements of
interest, as well worthy of achievement in lingerie making as in other
kinds of sewing.

5. Materials. — In the features to be sought in lingerie material,
perhaps the one of most importance is durability, or the quality to
withstand the hard wear of frequent laundering, for to maintain a
standard of perfect cleanliness, undergarments must be tubbed
regularly. After this, there are the qualities of ease of seam finish,
cost, daintiness, and color.

§ 4 UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE 3

Silk has many favorable features, the chief of which is perhaps its
wearing quality, provided, of course, it is properly laundered. To
many women, the luxuriousness of silk is a desirable point, but this
should never be allowed to outweigh the practical features of other
materials. At the same time, however, silk has an economical feature
to recommend it, for while its initial cost is greater, if time can be
given to careful laundering, the increased wear it gives will make its
purchase for underwear a good investment.

Crepe de Chine probably enjoys the most favor as a silk lingerie
fabric, with radium or Pussy Willow taffeta next in popularity. For
more elaborate effects, wash satin, triple voile, or Georgette may be
chosen. Silk Jersey, which may be purchased in tubing form, makes
a very practical material for vests. Pongee is popular for tailored
garments.

In cotton, which is the fabric in most general use, choice may be
made of nainsook, long-cloth, batiste, cotton crepe, voile, cross-bar,
coutil, or muslin, depending on the type of garment to be made and
the wear expected of it.

Handkerchief linen makes exquisite lingerie, but, because of the
disadvantage of crushing readily, its fresh appearance is not long
retained. Also, its expense limits its utility to that of a luxury.

6. Color. — In years past, practically all lingerie was made up
in white material, whether silk, cotton, or linen was used, but of
recent years colored lingerie has come into vogue. The develop-
ments that have been made in the dye industry have gradually
brought about a general use of what might be called the flower tints,
so like a lovely garden are they, until now, tea-rose pink, hydrangea
blue, orchid, leaf green, and buttercup yellow are as frequently
seen as white. Of the pastel tints, flesh pink is the most commonly
used, with orchid the next choice. Peach also has a large following
among lingerie enthusiasts, and tan is in such demand that shops
display a sizable stock in this color. Although black is far from a
pastel tint, it is sanctioned as appropriate under black dresses,
especially for mourning and for evening wear.

In spite of the enthusiasm over colored underwear, it must be
kept in mind that good taste does not allow of a general use of
colorful lingerie under transparent outer clothing. Exception is
made in the case of a slip, which often provides the means of empha-
sizing a particularly pleasing color contrast and thus becomes a

•

4 UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE § 4

part of the outfit, or when the underwear matches the dress, even
though the latter is sheer and of a bright color.

7. Trimming. — The manner of trimming lingerie divides it into
two types ; the tailored, which is the plain or almost untrimmed kind,
and the feminine sort, in which dainty materials are of first impor-
tance and the trimming of lace or embroidery dominates the effect.
Both types have their followers; in fact, many women have under-
wear both trimmed and plain, the former for special occasions and the
latter for daily wear.

When the figure is rounded to any extent, it is best to forego all
decoration in the nature of frills or ruffles, and make up for the lack
of trimming by the quality of the material. However, such embel-
lishments as hand embroidery, and plaits, tucks, or lace applied
fiat are appropriate for the stout figure, and will not interfere with
the snug fit and perfect lines of outer garments.

The slender woman may beruffie her lingerie, but even she should
avoid too much of this sort of trimming, or her outer garments will
lose their smoothness, and, to a certain extent, their grace of line.
If trimming is to be used, lace, footing, and embroidery edgings and
insertion are the appropriate forms that may be purchased, while
plaits, tucks, scant ruffles, and bindings of self- or contrasting
material are among the varieties that may be made.

The forms of hand embroidery particularly appropriate for
lingerie include applique, French knots, feather-stitching, fagoting,
rambler-rose stitch, and outlining. All of these are effective and
none is difficult to do, both of which are points of importance in this
work. More pretentious stitches are eyelet and French embroidery,
and the buttonhole scallop.

8. Style Influence. — Though the use of trimming is regulated,
to a certain extent, by the style of outer garments, the cut and design
of lingerie are most definitely affected by what is to be worn over it.
It naturally follows, when narrow skirts are in vogue, that slim
undergarments are used, too, that fulness in dresses brings about
fulness in underwear, and that the flare at the bottom of a cir-
cular skirt is quite likely to be repeated in one's slips or chemises.
In the same way, a vogue for sports dresses will bring about a
vogue for severity in undergarments, while the wearing of lace-
trimmed lingerie frocks usually calls for a similar type of costume
slip or chemise.

§ 4 UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE 5

In every case, however, the proper restraint must be used, so that
any seasonal novelty will not take away from the correctness of cut
and finish, which, after all, are the most important features of
lingerie making. A knowledge of the smart silhouette is a necessity
if underwear is to be correctly made, not that the silhouette should
be exaggerated but followed sensibly so that each new variation of
fashion in outer apparel will be discreetly reflected in the garments
worn underneath.

9. Patterns. — Because of the simplicity of present-day under-
garments, in many cases no pattern is necessary as a guide in cut-
ting. Instead, simple, concise directions may be followed with
excellent results, the only tools necessary being a yardstick, a tape
measure, scissors, pins, tailors' chalk, and a pencil.

So, wherever it is possible to cut without patterns, you will find it
to your advantage to follow this plan. If there should be any hesi-
tancy about cutting into material, practice with paper folded and
marked according to the directions; then, when you experience for
yourself the ease with which such cutting may be done, you will
feel thoroughly confident to cut into whatever fabrics you desire
to use.

However, certain types of undergarments, such as the athletic
combination and bloomers, do not lend themselves to this type of
cutting. When this is the case, a prepared or a commercial pattern
is suggested.

10. Applying Principles of Underv/ear Construction. — In

instruction on underwear making, it is an impossibility to include
all the variations that come into vogue from season to season. This,
however, is not necessary to the woman who understands the con-
struction principles of foundation garments, for once the funda-
mentals are understood they can be adapted to any style of garment.
Styles, colors, novelty materials, and trimmings change, but never
do the principles of making. Seams, hems, facings, tucks, darts,
and the numerous other constructive details, when mastered in
reference to certain garments and materials, can easily be applied to
other garments and materials, and made to conform to new whims of
Fashion. The latest touches can be gleaned from magazines and
shops, and then applied so that the copy is a better-quality and
better-made garment than the original.

•

6 UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE § 4

Because simply trimmed underwear is always in good taste and is
immune from sudden and drastic fashion changes, it makes up the
main part of these books on underwear and lingerie. In the first
Section, chemises, combinations, drawers, and brassieres in pleasing
variety are given, and in the second Section slips, petticoats, night-
gowns, pajamas, and negligees, as well as a complete set of matching
lingerie are discussed. Since each garment throughout both Sections
has been chosen to emphasize some special feature, the ensemble of
garments represents those needed for every type of wear and for
every type of figure.

VARIETIES OF UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE

CHEMISES

NATURE OF CHEMISES

11. In its original form, the chemise was a straight one-piece
garment, rather scantily made and intended to be worn next to the
skin and under the corset. It was constructed of a fine, sheer fabric,
such as batiste or handkerchief linen, making it a comfortable gar-
ment for its purpose and thoroughly satisfactory. As such, this
simple chemise is still worn by a few persons, but, for the majority,
its place has been taken by the knitted undervest of either silk or
cotton.

As the chemise has gradually lost its place as this type of garment,
it has developed in another direction and has become the favorite
undergarment of many women, who have been keen to recognize
its merits of simplicity, both of making and of laundering, as well
as the excellent foundation it provides for the straight -line, one-
piece dress. The chemise in its new guise is called the envelope,
or the step-in, chemise, and the combination underwaist and drawers.
The difference between the two is that the envelope, or step-in,
chemise is evidently one garment, while the combination is really
two garments joined together.

•

§ 4 UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE

STRAIGHT CHEMISE

12. Description. — The simplest form of chemise is that cut
from a straight length of material by using the width of the fabric
for the length of the garment and thus limiting the finishing
required to the one side seam and to the top and bottom. As
illustrated in Fig. 1, the result is a gar-
ment straight in line, with an effect of
daintiness gained by the use of lace or
embroidery as trimming. The top is
finished with a hem, providing a double
thickness of material that adds firm-
ness and strength to the garment, while
the bottom has a very narrow hem
edged with lace or embroidery.

If a cotton material is preferred,
nainsook, batiste, or cross-bar dimity
completed by a narrow embroidery edge
will be found satisfactory, while in silk,
either crepe de Chine or radium with
lace is a wise choice.

Fig. 1

13. Material Requirements. — Take
your hip measure generously, to this

amount add 4 inches, and provide the resulting number of inches
in silk or in cotton in a 36- or 40-inch width. Supply also about
5 yards of 1- to 2-inch lace for a silk garment, or of embroidery
edging for a cotton one, and 1 yard of 1-inch ribbon for shoulder
straps, provided you wish to use ribbon.

14. Cutting. — If the cut edges of your material are not straight,

proceed to straighten them, since it is these edges that are seamed
together to form the under-arm seam. Next, trim off a strip on the
length of the fabric along the selvage, 8 to 10 inches in width if your
height is average or tall, or more if you are short. The width of the
wider section should be the same as a measurement taken from under
the arm to a point just above the knee, plus 2J inches. The narrow
section will be used later for the flap across the bottom of the chemise
as well as for shoulder straps if you want them of self -fabric.

15. Seaming the Side. — The French seam is used as a finish for
the single joining, but in order to have the seam allowance con-

UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE

§4

cealed in the deep hem that is brought to the right side to finish the

top, it is necessary to reverse the seam for a distance of 2i inches.

Therefore, starting at
the selvage edge, make

^ \ "~ seam as follows:

^K^^ N For 2i inches, first turn

the raw edges of the
'^^X \ seam to the wrong side

. for the first stitching,

trim off the edge to
within a scant | inch
of the stitching, and
* press the seam edges
^ together to one side.

2 Next, reverse the fold

so that the seam edges come within the fold, as at a, Fig. 2, making

the turn exactly on the stitched line ; crease the edge flat and baste

it; then stitch on the seam line, as at h. This row of stitching

must fully cover the edges of

the previous seam, thus explain-
ing the reason for trimming all

frayed edges from the first seam.
Now clip the seam allowance

across just where the seam ends,

as at - a, Fig. 3; then, from this

point, make a French seam down

to a point midway between the

clipped end of the first seam and

the bottom of the garment,

having the raw edges after the

first stitching h turned to the

same side of the material as is

the completed French seam, as

shown. The result will be one

French seam from the selvage

down 2\ inches on one side of

the material and another French

seam on the other side to within 12 to 15 inches of the bottom

edge, so that, when the hem is turned to the right side, the seam

will be inside, and the seam of the garment, inside also.

Fig. 3

§4

UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE

16. Finishing the Top. — With the longer French seam on the
inside, bring the selvage edge down to form a hem 2 inches deep,
having the clipped edge of the French seam, J inch below the
edge of the turn on the wrong side. Overcast the clipped seam
carefully, but, before sewing the hem in place, baste the lace or
embroidery so that its inner edge will come under the hem. Then,
sew with a row of moderately small running-stitches, taken with
mercerized or silk floss along the selvage if your material is silk, or
with machine stitching if your

material is cotton and particu- ' T':-L^M^»!»i^^

As a finish for the lower edge ^ .'a»a».».»av.v..,'*»>/,« .

of the chemise, as well as for the

openings at the sides, when lace forms the trimming, turn a J-inch
hem and baste it carefully, tapering the depth of the hem to nothing
as it approaches the end of the slash. Before sewing the hem in
permanently, baste the lace in place, as at a, Fig. 4, just underneath
the hem. Apply it plain, except, of course, at each corner where
plenty of fulness should be introduced.

At the top of the side openings, trim out a wedge-shaped section
of the trimming, as at b. Join the two cut edges, using a hand-fell
seam. To do this, lap one edge over the other and place a row of
basting-stitches down the center of the lapped seams, as at a, Fig. 5;

17. Finishing the Bottom
Edges. — To duplicate the open-
ing below the seam at the bot-
tom of the chemise by a similar
opening on the other side, fold
the chemise so that the seam
comes along one edge of the
fold, and, on the opposite fold,
slash up from the bottom a
distance equal to the opening
below the seam, as determined
in Art. 1 5 ; that is, half the
length of the chemise, measur-
ing after the 2-inch top hem
has been turned.

larly if you are using embroidery
edging.

•

10 UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE § 4

then turn in the raw edges so that they meet at the basting line and
hem them down on each side with small, firm stitches, as at b and c.

Now sew the hem and lace in one operation, using a running-stitch
similar to the one used to hold the hem at the top, if the material is
silk. If you are using embroidery edging on a cotton material,
French-seam the embroidery to the chemise, trimming out a section
at the top of the side openings and finishing it in the same manner
as for the lace.

18. Making the Flap. — To make the flap for the bottom, cut off
a 12- to 16-inch length from the narrow strip, trim off sufficient to

Fig. S

make it 4 inches wide, fold it so that it measures 4 inches by 6 or 8
inches, and stitch along the long edges, leaving the short end open.
Turn inside out, press, and apply across the bottom of the chemise,
attaching one end at the center back and the other at the center
front. Use small, firm hemming-stitches, concealing the raw ends
carefully.

19. Adding the Straps. — The remainder of the 6-inch strip will
form the shoulder straps. Cut it into two sections, 3 inches wide,
and seam these. Turn right side out and press with the seam in
the center,, as at a. Fig. 6, rather than on the edge. Pin the straps
in place, usually about 4 inches both sides of the center back and the
center front ; then slip the chemise on to make sure that they are in
the correct position and of the proper length.

§4 UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE ll

Now sew the straps to the chemise, turning in the raw edges, as
at b, and placing the turn so that it comes in line with the row of

Fig. 6

stitching that holds the top hem of the chemise in place. Make the
stitches small, taking them through a single thickness of material
so they will not show through on the right side. To hold the strap
at the top, slip-stitch it, as at c,
across its entire width. |

20. Making the Top Smaller I
by Darts. — When the bust mea- |

surement is small in proportion to J

the hips, the top of the garment |
should be made smaller and an '
opening provided to afford ease i

in putting on and taking off the ; ,.4
chemise. Remove in the side
seam one-half of the amount to be
taken out, and take out the other
half in a dart at the opposite
under arm, making the dart as i
deep as is necessary at the top,
but tapering it to nothing as it i
approaches the hip line. To do
this, first of all turn down the ^
2-inch hem at the top and fasten it in place with machine stitching
or running-stitches. Then finish the full-length side seam to within
4 inches of the top and the dart seam to the top with French seams,

12 UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE § 4

trimming off the excess material beyond the seam after the first
stitching, as in Fig. 7. Finish the 4-inch opening of the seam with
a flat-stitched continuous placket.

21. Making a Flat-Stitched Continuous Placket.— To make a
fiat-stitched continuous placket, first cut a facing strip J inch longer

Fig 8 Fig. 9

than twice the length of the placket opening and If inches wide.
Place the right lengthwise edge of this strip to the right side of one
edge of the placket opening and baste the two edges together in a
narrow seam, tapering the width of the seam as you approach the
end of the opening in order to avoid forming a decided plait at this
point ; then continue basting the strip to the opposite side of the open-

§ 4 UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE 13

ing. Stitch on the basted Hne, as at a, Fig. 8 ; then cHp across the
seam allowance, as at 6. Also, turn under the free edge of the facing
and crease the strip lengthwise through the center, but instead of
securing the free edge the full length over the first row of stitching,
baste it merely to the under portion of the placket, as at c. Then
cut away a portion of the facing, as illustrated, starting about
\ inch above the crosswise center of the placket, as at J, and then
cutting \ inch inside of the fold, as at e, to the upper end of the
placket.

22. Next, fold the upper portion of the facing strip back on the
wrong side of the chemise and baste it in position, first along the
outer edge of the placket, as at /, so as to make sure that the seam
line does not show on the right side. Then, with the facing strip
made perfectly smooth, baste its inner edge to the garment, as at g,
and also as at a. Fig. 9, which shows the facing entirely turned
back in position. Secure this edge with whipping-stitches, as at 5,
taking care to pick up only a thread or two of the garment material
with each stitch so that the whipping will be inconspicuous on the
right side.

Complete the placket by securing it with very fine hemming-
stitches along the lower end, as at c, so as to hold the raw edge of the
wider portion of the facing strip in position, and then continuing the
hemming along the inside edge, as at d, to the top.

If you are making the flat-stitched continuous placket in material
other than silk, you may substitute machine stitching for the
hand hemming, first stitching across the lower end with the placket
opened rather than with the under and the upper portions folded
together, and then along the inside edge of the facing strip.

Fasten the placket by means of snap fasteners of medium size.
Sew one at the top of the opening and place two others below, spacing
them evenly.

23. Enlarging the Top. — If the bust measurement is large in
proportion to the hips, it will be necessary for you only to consider
this measurement rather than the hip measure in making the allow-
ance for the size of the chemise. The extra material through the
hip portion will not be at all objectionable.

UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE

§4

CAMISOLE-TOP CHEMISE

24. Description. — The chemise shown in Fig. 10 is another
simple style that may be developed from a small amount of material,
although this desirable saving is not possible unless two garments

are planned from the same fabric at the
same time. The top, as you will notice,
is finished with a close-fitting band, with
the necessary fulness of the chemise
itself held in by tucks placed in groups.
Wash ribbon forms the shoulder straps.

25. Material Requirements. — This
combination is cut from straight lengths
of material and requires a 36- or 40-inch
fabric for the best results, although,
when the figure is slender, narrower
material may be used to advantage.
One length of material is the full width,
and the other is one-third to one-half
width, so if you purchase three lengths
of lingerie fabric, plus J yard for the
band at the top and for the bottom hem,
you will have enough material for two garments. Supply also
1 yard of ribbon or tape for shoulder straps and two buttons.

26. Cutting. — The directions that follow are given for the cut-
ting of two chemises from three lengths of material, the measure-
ments needed being the bust, the hip, and the length from just
under the arm to a desired point above the knee.

From your material, cut off three strips, from selvage to selvage,
each 8 inches wide. From one of these strips cut two short strips,
6 to 8 inches long, for the flap portions. The piece that is left may
be joined to the two full-length strips to form the bands that finish
the tops of the two chemises, provided the bust measures more than
36 to 38 inches and piecing is necessary. These 8-inch-wide bands
are applied double, the completed band being about 3^ inches wide.
The length of the bands should, of course, correspond to the bust
measure plus from Ij to 2 inches for ease and finishing.

Now divide the remaining material into three equal parts. If
your chemise is to be 27 inches long— an average length — and the

Fig. 10

UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE

finished band, 3| inches wide, each section should measure 23 1 inches
plus 1 inch for finishing, or 24| inches. Two of these sections will
form the fronts of the two chemises and extend part way to the
center back. Fold the third section through the center lengthwise
and cut on the fold for the back sections of both garments. Or,
if the figure measures 34 inches or less through the bust, cut this
one section in thirds rather than halves.

27. Preparing the Body Portion. — For each chemise, join one
of the half or third widths to one of the full widths, using a narrow,
regulation French seam; then, placing one seam line over the
other, crease and mark the centers of the wide and the narrow sec-
tions. Consider the center of the narrow section as the center
back and that of the wide

section, the center front.

28. Since the tucks
used in lingerie are really
more attractive when
made narrow, never make
them deeper than J inch.
The narrower they are,
the daintier, but the more
time they require. Plan
for two groups in front, of
five tucks each, or if you
prefer, three groups of just
the correct number, the
tucks equally spaced and
of the proper depth to
reduce the top of the
chemise portion to the
same size as the band that
finishes it. Put in these
tucks by hand or by ma-
chine, the method followed
depending on the amount of time you have to give to the work.
If you use machine stitching, take the precaution to leave plenty
of length when you cut off the threads, and then draw the ends
through to the wrong side and tie them carefully, as at a, Fig. 11,
to prevent the tucks from ripping.

UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE

§4

29. Another means of arranging fulness is by means of machine
shirring; that is, by placing several rows of machine gathering in
groups, as shown in Fig. 12. The shirring may be directly in the
center front or at each side. If desired, a touch of hand-work may be
introduced by means of dainty feather-stitching or other decorative

in line with one of the seams of the garment. If the chemise should
seem a little large for the band, ease it to the band; but if the band
is large, you will need to make the tucks smaller, or the shirring
less full.

31. Replace the basting with stitching; then bring the free
edge over to the right side, make a J-inch turning along the edge,
and baste it down to cover the raw edges of the first seam. This
joining may be machine hemstitched, as in Fig. 10, or, if you prefer,
a single row of machine stitching may be used. Of course, if you
are making your garment by hand and do not care to have any
machine stitching show on the right side, you may sew the band
in place so that its right side is to the right side of the garment,
and then, by hand, hem down the free edge to the stitching on the
wrong side.

32. Finishing the Bottom. — At this time, turn a J-inch hem
entirely around the lower edge and baste and stitch it in place.
Then shape the flap portions to the proper measurements; that is,'
5 inches wide and about 6 inches long. Finish the longer edges and
one of the shorter edges with J-inch hems. Attach the unfinished
edge to the bottom of the chemise across the center back, turning
in the raw edge carefully and sewing it in place with hand or machine
stitches to the upper edge of the hem that finishes the bottom.

33. Lace and Rolled-Hem Finish. — Provided you have made
your chemise entirely by hand and prefer hand-work as a finish

stitches placed between the rows of machine
stitching, as shown here.

Fig. 12

30. Preparing and Applying the Band.

Stitch the two short ends of the band together,
using a plain seam, and press this open care-
fully. Baste the band to the top of the chemise,
with its right side to the wrong side of the
garment and the raw edges matching, and with
the seam in the band so placed that it will be

§4

UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE

for the lower edge, narrow lace whipped to a rolled hem, as shown in
Fig. 13, may be used. If you wish fulness in the lace, as illustrated,
draw up the firmest thread of the edge, as at a, taking care not to
break it, and adjust the gathers evenly before starting to roll the
edge of the material.

34. To make a rolled hem, first hold the wrong side of the
material toward you and trim off all ravelings; then, beginning at
the upper end, roll the edge tightly between the thumb and the
forefinger of the left hand, taking care to keep an even edge and to
make the roll as tight and tiny as possible, as at b. After rolling
2 or 3 inches of the edge, secure the hem by taking whipping-stitches
over the roll, but not so that they will be conspicuous on the right
side, and, at the same time, as

at c, catching the edge of the H
lace with each of these stitches.

Follow this procedure in
making the entire hem, roll-
ing only a small portion at a
time and whipping the lace
to the hem as you advance.
When the lower edges are
finished in this way, the flap,
also, must have rolled hems.

35. Making the Button-
holes.— To complete the gar-
ment, prepare to make the
buttonholes that are neces-
sary to fasten the flap of the
chemise. Mark the place for
these on each side of the
center front, about 2 inches

apart, and then proceed to \ \, fig. i3
add reinforcement for the
buttonholes.

To stay the buttonholes, prepare a strip of material li inches wide
and 2f inches long. Turn in all raw edges and baste and stitch
the strip in place so that its lower edge comes just above the finish
used at the bottom of the chemise, providing in this way two thick-
nesses of material through which the buttonholes may be worked.

•

18 UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE § 4

Use sharp-pointed scissors or the regulation buttonhole scissors
for cutting the buttonholes, making the slash on a straight up-and-
down thread of the material long enough to accommodate the size
of the buttons you are going to use. In this case, as on all lingerie,
the buttons should be small enough to be dainty, but not too small
to give proper service. Prepare to work the buttonhole immediately
after cutting in order to prevent its fraying out ; therefore, cut only
one buttonhole at a time.

36. First, to prevent the edges from stretching and also to make
the buttonhole firm, supply what is known as a stranding thread;
that is, with a single thread of medium weight, about f yard long,
take two lengthwise stitches that lie close to the buttonhole open-
ing and are equal in length to this
T'"T ^ opening, as shown at a in Fig.

Fig. 14

Next, to hold the stranding threads in position and also to prevent
the edges of the buttonhole from fraying, take a few overcasting-
stitches over them, as shown, continuing with the same thread that
you used in stranding. After completing the overcasting, bring
this same thread out about inch below the inner end of the open-
ing in preparation for working the buttonhole.

37. To make the buttonhole-stitch, with the lower edge of the
garment toward the left, place the buttonhole opening over the
forefinger of the left hand and hold it in position with the thumb;
insert the needle through the sHt and then in the edge of the button-

§ 4 UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE 19

hole, as at b, to make a short stitch, usually about inch deep;
bring the thread that comes from the eye of the needle around under
the point of the needle to the left, forming a loop, as at c; and then
draw the thread firm and close, but not tight enough to draw the
edges apart. A stitch made in this manner forms a double purl at
the edge of the buttonhole and makes a firmer and more durable
finish than the single purl of the blanket-stitch.

Continue working the buttonhole-stitches across the side of the
buttonhole, making them close together and all of the same length,
as the illustration shows. When you reach the outer end, take
several buttonhole-stitches around it, spacing them evenly, as at a,
Fig. 14 (6), and making these stitches somewhat deeper than those
along the edge, thus forming what is known as a round end or fan
finish. Such a finish is especially desirable in this case, for, besides
being very firm, it affords a resting place for the button.

38. When you reach the inner end of the buttonhole, finish this
with a bar, as at h, by taking several stranding-stitches across this
end and then working over them with single-purl stitches by bring-
ing the needle out over the thread, the same as in making the blanket-
stitch. Place these stitches close together, so that they will
entirely conceal the stitches underneath, and catch several of them
through the material so as to make the bar firm.

Finish the buttonhole by taking a couple of tiny back-stitches on
the wrong side.

39. Finishing the Chemise. — Sew the buttons to the free edge
of the flap, and then attach the shoulder straps as directed in
Art. 19.

GODET CHEMISE

40. Description. — When there is a tendency toward circular
effects in outer apparel, one's undergarments may emphasize the
same detail. As illustrated in Fig. 15, this effect is achieved by
means of godets inserted at the sides. The chemise is effectively
trimmed with lace insertion and edging.

41. Material Requirements. — Because of the added width at
the lower edge of this garment, two full lengths of material will be
needed for cutting it. Compute the amount by multiplying the
length by two, allowing for finishing the top with a cuff, and

20 UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE § 4

besides this supply 31 to 4 yards of insertion and If to 2 yards
of lace, also U yards of ribbon or lingerie tape to run through the
casing to hold in any fulness there may be at the top. The shoulder
straps may be cut from the sections of material remaining after the
godets are planned.

42. Cutting. — Cut two straight lengths of material, one a full
width and one from one-third to one-half width, depending on the
size of the figure, and from the remainder of the width, cut two
godets, or triangular inserts. If the figure is very slender, sufficient

Fig, is Pig. 16

To make a pattern for the godets, provide a section of paper 12 to
14 inches long if the figure is average or tall, and 9 to 10 inches wide,
as in Fig. 16. Make both the lengthwise and the crosswise measure-
ments smaller when the figure is short and slender. Place a and b
on the narrow edge of the paper 9 or 10 inches apart, the width of the
godet. In the center of the other narrow end, place a point c.
Now connect a with c and b with c, to form a wedge-shaped section.

Using this as a pattern, place it on the material so that its length-
wise center will come on a straight lengthwise thread of the fabric.

43. Making the Under- Arm Joining. — Starting at the bottom,
baste the godets to the wide and narrow sections. In this case, the

§ 4 UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE 21

center of the narrow section is considered the center front, and the
center of the wider one, the center back, the reverse of the usual
custom.

After the godets are placed, baste the vside seams together above
the godets and then slip the garment on to make sure that its size
is correct.

Make any necessary changes; then baste the insertion over the
basted seam lines, having it even and flat. Do not extend the
insertion to the top of the garment, but leave a space of 2 J to
3 inches.

Stitch the insertion carefully on both edges, as at a and b, Fig. 17;
then trim off the material under the insertion to within | inch of the

Fig. 17

stitching, as at c, and turn this raw edge back and stitch it in place.
This will result in two rows of stitching on the right side, as shown,
but since both are taken through the insertion they will be scarcely
noticeable.

44. Finishing the Chemise. — After completing the joining of
the under-arm seams, finish the unseamed space at the top with a
narrow French seam, turned to the right rather than to the wrong
side, as explained in Art. 15 ; then turn a Ij- to 2-inch hem to the
right side at the top. Now, take a length of insertion equal to the size
of the chemise at the top, plus hem allowances, and finish both raw
edges with J-inch hems. Baste the insertion over the raw edge of
the hem that finishes the top of the chemise, with the opening at the

UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE

§4

center front and the hemmed edges of the insertion just meeting.
Stitch on both edges.

Attach a single row of lace to the bottom, plain or gathered, as
you prefer, stitching it about f inch above the raw edge. After
stitching, turn back the raw edge and stitch again as directed in
Art. 43.

Prepare and apply shoulder straps, as explained in Art. 19,
and a flap as described in Art. 1 8, using the material left after the
body portion of the garment has been cut.

CAMISOLE-TOP CHEMISE FOR LARGE FIGURE

45. If a woman has hips that are oversize, it is often desirable
to shape the side seams of a chemise so as to have the garment
close fitting at the top and still provide plenty of ease through the

hip portion. Such a garment is possible
if you adopt a style similar to that shown
in Fig. 18. A chemise of this type is
preferred by many women, not only
because it is roomy, practical, and ser-
viceable, but also because it belongs to
the tailored class. In this garment, the
severity is relieved by the use of lace in
applique effect.

The flap portion is cut in one with the
chemise itself, and an inverted box plait
at the back forms a means of affording
extra fulness without interfering with
the apparent straightness and trimness
of the garment.

46. Pattern and Material Require-
ments.— A regulation envelope, or step-
in, chemise pattern may be used as a cutting guide, or you may
plan the garment by measurement and cut it without the aid of a
pattern. Besides the bust, hip, and length, a fourth measure-
ment, the under-arm length, is used, this being taken from a point
just under the arm to the hip bone, or a becoming, low waist line.

Crepe de Chine, radium, cotton crepe, batiste, nainsook, and
voile are appropriate materials, the amount required depending on
the measurements of the person for whom the chemise is to be made.

UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE

To compute the amount of ma-
terial required, measure from just
under the arm down to a point
above the knee, or the length you
wish the chemise to be, and multiply
the result by two ; then add 8 inches
to provide length for the flap and
for finishing and you will have the
required number of inches in fabric.
To duplicate Fig. 18, you will also
need a lace medallion, or a motif
cut from a floral-patterned Geor-
gette, crepe de Chine, or lawn,
depending on the material of which
the chemise is made, and Ij yards
of ribbon or lingerie tape to be run
through the casing.

47. Drafting a Pattern.— The

following directions may be applied
directly to the material of which
your chemise is to be made by
marking the points with pins or
tailors' chalk, or to a section of
paper with the aid of a pencil, in
this way forming a pattern to use
as a guide in cutting. The first
plan is quite as safe as the second,
provided, of course, the directions
are carefully followed.

48. If you are making a paper
pattern, use only one thickness
of paper. If you are working
with material, fold it through the
center lengthwise, as in Fig. 19,
and pin carefully. Place your
material on a table with the sel-
vage edges next to you and locate
point a in the upper right-hand
corner on the fold. To the left of a,

24 UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE § 4

measure the length of the garment, plus 2 inches, and locate point b.
Measure to the left of a, a distance equal to the under-arm length,
plus 1 inch, and place point c. Measure down from a toward you
a distance equal to one-fourth the hip measure, plus J inch, and mark
point d. Measure out from c a distance equal to one-fourth the hip
measure, plus li inches, and mark point e. In the same manner,
place / below b, a distance equal to one-fourth the hip measure, plus
2J inches. Connect d and /, through e, and / and b by straight lines
or by placing pins.

49. For the length of the flap, locate point g 4i inches to the
left of b, provided the chemise is to be cut in one piece. If the front
is to be cut separate, make the distance from 6 to g 5^ to 6 inches.
Mark h IJ inches below b, and i Ij inches below g.

Measure to the left of g a distance equal to the length of the gar-
ment plus 2 inches and place point /. Place k to the right of j a
distance equal to the under-arm measurement, plus 1 inch. Place
point / below /, a distance equal to one-fourth the hip measure,
plus 2i inches. Measure from k one-fourth the hip measure, plus
3i inches, and place point m. Locate n one-fourth the hip measure,
plus 4i inches, below g. Mark points o and p li inches below
/ and k, respectively.

Connect points / and n, through m, and then n and g with straight
lines or by using pins. Also join o and p, and i and h.

50. Cutting. — As a safeguard, verify all measurements. During
the cutting, round off the corners at / and n, provided you expect to
have the side seams open from the bottom for a certain proportion
of their length. If you prefer to have the side seams closed through-
out, cut the corners square. Round off the corners h and i when the
garment is cut all in one piece ; when in two pieces, cut directly up
to h and then straight across to b.

If you have formed a pattern or are using a commercial pattern,
pin it on the material with the center back and the center front on a
fold. Cut around all edges; then cut out the section jopk, Fig. 19.

Cut two shoulder straps, each about 15 inches long and 3 inches
wide.

51. Making the Seams and the Plait. — Join the raw edges at
the center back in a French seam, as described in Art. 1 5. Now
form an inverted box plait with the excess material below this seam,

§4

UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE

baste the plait carefully at the top on the wrong side of the garment,
and, turning in the raw edges, hem them down carefully, as at a,
Fig. 20. Place a second row of small running-stitches, as at 6, so
that the seam will be secure.

Use French seams for the under-arm seams also, extend them from
the top to within 8 to 10 inches of the bottom, if you wish side open-
ings; if not, stitch each under-
arm seam its entire length. If
you have fitted your chemise
closely at the top, do not
stitch the left under-arm seam
to the top, but have it open
a distance of 3 to 4 inches, and
finish the opening with a flat-
stitched placket, as described
in Arts. 21 and 22.

Fig. 20

Fig. 21

52. Working an Eyelet. — If you prefer a little fulness held in
by a ribbon run through a casing, work an oblong eyelet at the
center front, 1| inches from the top, to provide an opening through
which the ribbon or lingerie tape may be run.

To make this eyelet, first determine its position and shape. Slash
the material with sharp-pointed scissors and overcast the raw edges,
as at a. Fig. 21, and, still continuing with the thread used for over-
casting the eyelet, begin to work the eyelet with an over-and-over-
stitch, as at b. Take the stitches re to J inch deep and close together,
but not so close that they will overlap in any place. Finish the
eyelet with several tiny back-stitches on the wrong side, running
the thread under the stitches, also, before cutting.

UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE

§4

53. Finishing the Top. — Stitch up the strips provided for
shoulder straps, turn and press so that the seam is in the center, as
at a, Fig. 6.

The next step is the finish of the top of the chemise. Turn in
J inch; then turn again to form a 1-inch hem or casing. Before

stitching,' sHp the shoulder straps
into the hem, so that one row of
stitching will hold both the
hem and the straps, as at a. Fig.
22. After stitching, turn each
strap up and slip-stitch it to
the edge of the casing, as at
Fig. 6.

Fig. 22

54. Finishing the Bottom.

K Finish the bottom of the gar-

ment with a narrow hem, or
" apply a bias facing. For the
latter, stitch a f -inch bias of self-
fabric or a prepared bias to the
bottom of the chemise, right sides together, as at a. Fig. 23; then
bring the free edge of the binding over to the wrong side, so that
the seam line is on the edge, as at h. Turn in the raw edge, as at c,
and stitch, as at d.

Provided you have cut the back and the front separate, with the
flap a part of the back section, you will need to finish the free edge of
the flap. Baste and stitch a
J-inch hem, to provide a '
double thickness to which
the buttons may be sewed.
Place these about i inch
from each end.

To stay the buttonholes,
which are necessary to hold
the flap in place when the
chemise is on, prepare a

strip of self -material If inches wide and 3 inches long. Turn in all
raw edges, fold it through the center lengthwise, and stitch around
the three open edges. In this strip, work two buttonholes, follow-
ing the instruction in Arts. 35 to 39 and placing the buttonholes

Fig. 23

§4

UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE

about i inch from each end with the round end of each toward the
folded edge. Now sew the longer finished edge in place with firm
back-stitches across the center front about 3 inches above the
bottom of the chemise.

55. Applying the Trimming. — If you are using a lace medallion
for trimming, baste it in place, and then sew it firmly down on all
edges with fine overhanding-stitches. Trim out the material under-
neath, turn back the raw edge, and hem it down to the overhanding-
stitches, making sure that none of the last stitches show through to
the right side.

Follow the same method in apply-
ing a section "of figured material,
except to take the precaution of
turning in the raw edges before sew-
ing the applique in place.

ROUND-NECK CHEMISE

56. Description. — For the woman
who is active and quick in her
movements, the camisole-top chemise
is not thoroughly satisfactory, for,
if it is comfortably loose, the straps,
with every bend of the body, slip
over the shoulders and bind the arms ;
80^ for her there can be no better
choice than the round-neck chemise
illustrated in Fig. 24 with shoulder straps a part of the garment.
This chemise can be made even more roomy by allowing for a
box plait in the back as in the chemise shown in Fig. 18. Still
other points in its favor are that it is smooth fitting, simple of
construction, and easy to launder.

57. Material Requirements. — Because of its cut and finish, this
chemise is most satisfactorily developed of long-cloth, firm batiste,
cotton crepe, or cross-bar cotton.

If one's figure is not overlarge, it is advantageous to plan to cut
three or more undergarments of this type at one time, in this way
effecting a desirable saving of material. For a single garment,
supply two lengths; that is, an amount equal to twice the length

[51

UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE

§4

from the shoulder to a jjoint just alcove the knee, phis a reasonable
amount for finishing and for the flap. When three or more gar-
ments are planned, the narrow back section may be cut from the
part remaining after the fronts have been cut from a full width of
material. Of course, if the figure is stout, such a plan is not pos-
sible, and when this is the case, it is perhaps wiser to cut the garment
with the center back on a fold rather than on a cut edge.

58. Pattern Requirements and Cutting. — Provide a regula-
tion chemise pattern with a rounded neck line, and alter it carefully
to conform with your measurements, since it is essential that the
neck line be correctly shaped in order that the garment will "set"
properly without the aid of a ribbon or tape run through a casing.

Place the pattern with its center back on a fold or a cut edge,
depending on the measurements and the number of garments to be
cut. In all cases, place the center front on a fold. Cut in the

usual way.

59. Making the Seams and
Hems. — Join the side and the
center-back sections with
French seams as described in
Art. 15. Finish the neck line,
armholes, and lower edge with
narrow machine-stitched hems,
or with a bias facing or a bias
binding.

If you decide on the hem
finish, turn and baste in the
usual way, making the hem
J inch when finished.

60. Finishing Edges with
Bias Facings. — For a bias fac-
ing, provide the required yard-
age in 1- to IJ-inch bias strips

or the prepared J-inch bias binding. Baste and stitch the bias to
the neck edge, armholes, and bottom of the chemise with the
right sides of each together, as at a, Fig. 25. Turn to the wrong
side, so that the seam is directly on the turn, and baste the free
edge, which has been turned in once, as at b, flat against the gar-

FiG. 25

§ 4 UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE 29

ment, as at c. Stitch on this edge or finish it with a row of feather-
stitchinc:, as shown.

61. Finishing Edges with Single Feather-Stitching. — To do

single feather-stitching, bring the needle through the material from
the wrong side; then, working toward you, place the needle in a

■ \6

Fig. 26

diagonal position to form a slanting stitch, as at d, and have the
thread under the needle. Take the next stitch at the same angle
and of the same length, but in the opposite direction. Keep work-
ing toward you, alternating the stitches and having the thread
under the needle during each stitch. These stitches will catch the
edge of the bias facing, as at e.

62. Finishing Edges with Bindings. — If you prefer bound edges,
first stitch the binding to the edge, &s at a. Fig. 26, and as described
for the facing, but when basting the free edge to the wrong side,
baste it so that it just covers the stitching of the first seam. Baste
this edge accurately; then, from the right side, stitch just over the
seam line, as at b, catching the binding on the wrong side, as at c.

63. Completing the Garment. — Complete the garment by turn-
ing a J-inch hem on the flap portion, and by cutting and applying
the stay piece for the buttonholes, as described in Art. 54. Then
attach the buttons properly spaced for the buttonholes.

SIDE-DART CHEMISE

64. Description. — Another chemise that is a wise choice for the
large-hip woman, is the one in Fig. 27. The cut of the garment
allows of a smooth, close-fitting effect, but plenty of ease is introduced
through the lower portion by means of darts at the sides.

UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE

§4

Although this chemise is simple in cut and construction, it becomes
a lovely undergarment by the addition of fagoting applied along the
top and bottom. There is no more attractive form of trimming for
lingerie than hand-work, even in its simplest forms, as is evident in
this case where simple fagoting transforms a plain garment into one
of distinction.

65. Material Requirements. — Such fabrics as crepe de Chine
and radium silk are particularly appropriate for a chemise of this
type, but if you prefer to make it of cotton, satisfactory results may

be had from the use of batiste, nainsook,
or cotton crepe. Whatever the material,
it should be dainty and of good quality,
if it is to carry hand- work and be worth
the time expended on it.

The amount of material needed may
be computed by measuring from just
under the arm to that point above the
knee where the garment is to come.
From this length, subtract 3 inches, the
width of the trimming bands, and then
multiply the result by two, for, of
course, you will need two lengths of
material. Supply 1 yard of ribbon for
shoulder straps if you prefer ribbon to
self -fabric, and a spool of knitting silk
for the fagoting.

66. Outlining the Pattern. — The simplicity of cutting makes a
pattern unnecessar}^, although, if you wish, you may form a pattern
in paper and use this as a guide in cutting the material. The follow-
ing directions may be applied either to the fabric or to paper. If you
cut the fabric directly, as shown in Fig. 28, the lines ab and hi will
represent a fold, but on a paper pattern they may be a single straight
edge. On the material, indicate the position of all points with pins:
on paper, mark them with pencil.

67. For the front, first locate point a J inch to the left of the
upper right-hand corner. Locate point b, to the left of a, a distance
equal to the center-front length minus 3 inches ; and locate c to the
left of a, the distance from the under-arm point to a low waist line,
minus Ih inches.

UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE

•a*

Below a, measure a dis-
tance equal to one-fourth
the bust measure, plus IJ
inches, and mark d. Below
c, measure a distance equal
to one-fourth the bust
measure, plus 2 inches, and
mark e.

Now from c, through e,
measure a distance equal to
one-fourth the hip measure,
plus IJ inches, and place
point /. When there is
very little difference be-
tween the bust and the hip
§^ measurements, thus bring-
^ ing e and / close together,
more than IJ inches may
be added in order to pro-
^ vide a reasonable amount
of fulness below the dart.

Next, below b measure
a distance equal to one-
fourth the hip measure,
plus 2 to 3 inches, and
mark g. Then connect
points a and d, d and e, e
and /, / and g, and g and b
with pins or with straight
lines.

68. For the back, first
place point h J inch to the
left of b, to allow for seam
finishes. Then locate point
i equal to the center-back
length of the chemise,
minus 3 inches, to the left
of h. Mark point /, to the
left of h, the length from

32 UNDERWEAR AMD LINGERIE § 4

the under-arm point to a low waist line, minus Ih inches. Measure
below h a distance equal to one-fourth the bust measure, plus
i inch, and place k. Measure below / one-fourth the bust measure,
plus IJ inches, and mark /. Also measure from /, through /, one-
fourth the hip measure, plus 3 J inches, and locate m. Then measure
below i one-fourth the hip measure, plus 4 inches, and place n.

Fig. 29

Now connect h and k, k and /, / and m, m and n, and n and i by
placing pins or pencil lines. Before going any farther, verify all
measurements.

69. Cutting. — Now cut the outlines, allowing a ^-inch seam on
the top and the bottom of both the front and the back sections.

Next, slash 3 inches beyond point /, to point o on a straight line,
and 4 inches beyond ^ to on a slightly downward slant, having the
distance from the top of the chemise to the end of the dart J inch
greater than the distance from e to d. This slant will make the
garment "set" well, since it allows for the fact that the figure is
longer in front than in back.

If you have formed a pattern, place it with its center-back and its
center-front edges on a lengthwise fold of the material, and cut around
all edges, cutting the slashes for the darts, both back and front.

Cut the flap 6 to 8 inches long and 4 inches wide to provide, on
each edge, a'J-inch hem. Cut shoulder straps also, if you prefer
them, making them 2| inches wide, and cut the bands for the top
and the bottom from the material cut off at the sides, making them
3^ inches wide and long enough to extend around both the top and
the bottom of the chemise.

§ 4 UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE 33

7 0. Finishing the Side Darts and Seams. — Join the under-arm
seams, using the French seam, and, after pressing them carefully,
prepare to finish the darts at the sides. First, gather the lower
edge, drawing up the gathering thread, as at a. Fig. 29, to make it
the same length as the upper edge. Then adjust the fulness of the
lower edge and baste it to the ungathered edge, raw edges to the
right side, as for a French seam. Stitch the edges together, as at h,
starting at a point J inch beyond the opening in order to taper
the stitching gradually and avoid a plait or puckering of the
material.

After the first stitching, wnich you may prefer to do by machine,
even though the remainder of the garment is put together by hand,
trim off the raw edges and proceed as for the regulation French seam,
as at c, taking the precaution of basting before ^the final stitching
so that the gathers will be properly adjusted. Start the second
stitching well beyond the first, as at a. Fig. 30, so that the finished
dart will lie flat, and taper the depth of the seam gradually, as at h.

71. Applying the Top Band. — You are now ready to apply the
fagoted bands. Plan the joinings of these strips so that they will
seem to be a continuation of the under-arm seams. Press these

Fig. 30

joinings carefully; then turn in the raw edges J inch toward each
other, as at a and b, Fig. 31, and bring these two folded edges
together.

Make two J-inch turns on the upper raw edge of the chemise
toward the wrong side, as at c. Next, baste the folded strip and the
upper chemise edge, as at d and e, respectively, on a piece of stiff

34 UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE § 4

paper from 12 to 14 inches long and about 6 inches wide, allowing a
i- to |-inch space between them.

72. Fagoting the Joinings. — The f ago ting-stitch is worked
from left to right, so, starting at the left end of the prepared sec-
tion, take a small stitch from right to left directly through the four

Fig. 31

thicknesses of the band at the top, as at /. Now, in the chemise
portion, take a second stitch not directly below the first, but about
i inch to the right of it. This stitch, also, is taken from right to left.
Continue in this way as far as the basting-stitches run ; then, attach-
ing the adjacent section to the paper in the same manner, proceed
with the fagoting. Finish both top and bottom in this way.

73. Finishing the Chemise. — Prepare the flap for the bottom
of a double or a single thickness, attach one end at the center back,
and if you are using a single thickness, hem the other end. Cut and
finish a small stay piece for the buttonholes, as directed in Art. 35,
and after these are worked attach the stay piece just above the fagot-
ing. If the shoulder straps are of self -fabric, attach them by follow-
ing the suggestions in Art. 19 ; if of ribbon, form a small loop just
above the ends, as shown in Fig. 31, and attach the ribbon from the
wrong side so that all stitches are concealed.

§ 4 UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE 35

COMBINATIONS

NATURE OF COMBINATIONS

74. As the name implies, the word combination is used to desig-
nate those undergarments so planned that they may be said to be
a combination of vest and drawers. Some garments of this type

1 may have a crosswise joining at the waist line, or somewhat below it,

j while others have an opening down the center front and the cross-

wise joining across the back only.

The manner in which a combination is cut makes it possible to

I obtain a very slender effect through the upper portion with a flare

or fulness below it. This undergarment is therefore a wise choice
for the woman inclined to stoutness.

Another possibility in developing combinations is that of using a

h silk vest to which sections of crepe de Chine or a similar soft weave

p in lingerie silk may be attached, in

this way forming a very satisfactory
undergarment and a foundation that
will be comfortable and will look
well, too.

1 STEP-IN COMBINATION

j 75. Description .■ — A simple

model, unusually easy to plan and

! make, is illustrated in Fig. 32. The

upper portion is formed of straight
lengths of material or of a silk vest if

j you prefer, with step-in drawers

j attached, in this way making a com-

j plete undergarment. The lower sec-

tion is cut wider than the upper part
and attached with fulness at the sides
in order to provide the required ease.

I Center-stitched binding forms the only trimming on the garment.

76. Material Requirements. — Two lengths of material plus 9
or 10 inches will be needed, provided the garment is made all of one
fabric. For a very slight figure, one vest length might be subtracted

36 UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE § 4

from this amount, as one width of 40-inch material will be sufficient
for a vest of small hip measure.

If you are using a ready-made vest and are making the drawers
only, measure from the bottom of the vest portion while it is on or
held up against the figure to the length you desire the finished
garment. Multiply this by 2 and add 6 inches. It may happen
that the bottom of the vest will seem to come too low on the figure;
when this is the case, it is better to trim off a reasonable amount from
the vest rather than to provide less material and have the joining
of the drawers to the vest part awkwardly placed.

Selvages

Folds

Q)
in

10
10

Lengthwise Folds

Fig. 33

77. Cutting the Drawers. — To cut the drawers portion, fold the
material, which should be twice the length of the finished drawers,
plus 6 inches, through the center lengthwise; then make a second
fold, crosswise, bringing the four selvage edges together and the
two folds, but making the second fold so that the under section
extends 1 inch beyond the upper one. Pin carefully.

With the lengthwise folded edges nearest you and the crosswise
folds to the left, as in Fig. 33, place point a in the lower right-hand

§ 4 UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE 37

corner of the shorter top section. Above a toward the selvages,
place point b a distance equal to one-fourth the hip measure, plus
IJ inches. To the left of a. place point c, a distance equal to the
length 3'ou wish the garment to be, plus h inch for finishing. Then
2 inches to the left of c, place point d, which should come directly
on the crosswise folded edges if you have supplied 6 inches more
than the length you wish the drawers. Next, 2 inches above d,
place e ; then draw a line 2 inches long to the right of e and at right
angles to the fold on the edge, and place point /. Now, from point c
on the edge that is toward you, measure toward the selvage, through
point /, a distance equal to one-fourth the hip measure, plus 3 inches,
and place point g at the termination of this line. Then join points
g and b.

Next, trim off a strip from the longer section, starting at b and
tapering from this point out to the cut edges within about 8 inches
of the center back, as shown by the dotted line. This will provide
greater length in the back of the step-ins where needed. Cut from
b to g, from g to/, and from / to e, rounding off the corners at g and /,
as shown.

If your material is limited, you may cut the flap portion separately,
from the fabric remaining at the sides after the step-ins are cut,
rather than have the garment all in one. From the material left
after the step-ins have been cut, cut several strips of bias, 1 inch
wide, for finishing.

78. Cutting the Vest. — For the vest section, use one half width
of the required length for the back and enough width cut from
another length to make the finished size of the vest equal to the
hip measure plus 4 to 6 inches. Use the remainder of the width for
shoulder straps, each 3^ inches wide and 15 inches long, and also
for bias bindings, if needed. If a hem and a center-stitched binding,
as pictured, are used, 3 or 4 inches should be allowed for finishing.

For a slight figure, only one width of the required length is neces-
sary if the material is 40 inches wide.

79. Preparing the Drawers and Vest for Joining. — Finish all
the cut edges of the drawers portion, except those that are to be
attached to the vest, with a center-stitched binding.

To make center-stitched binding, turn the raw edges f inch to the
right side, as at a, Fig. 34; then turn again, making three thicknesses
of material at the edge. Then, from the right side, stitch directly

38 UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE § 4

in the center of this turned edge, as at b. As you approach the
corners, have the stitching continuous, as at c.

Join the two sections that form the vest, with small French seams,
having the seam allowance to the right side for a distance of 2 inches

Fig. 34

from the top, and from this point down, turning the allowance to
the wrong side, as is described in Art. 1 5. Finish the top by turning
a 1 J-inch hem to the right side, finishing its raw edge with a center-
stitched binding. Attach the shoulder straps.

If, because of a large hip measure, there is much surplus width at
the top, a casing and draw ribbon will be needed to finish it.
This finish is explained in Arts. 5 2 and 5 3.

Fig. 35

At the upper edge of the drawers portion, place two rows of gather-
ing threads, | inch apart, starting 4 to 6 inches from the center front
on both sides of it and a corresponding distance from the center back,

§4

UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE

and continuing out to the bound edges. Draw the threads up until
the front and the back measure one-half the width of the vest.

80. Joining the Vest and Drawers. — Baste the vest and drawers
together, center front and center back matching and bound edges
at the sides just meeting. If the vest is made of one width, place
the one seam under the left arm in line with the bound edges of the
step-ins. If two sections form the vest, have the seams come at the
back, each seam the same distance from the center back. Now join
the vest and drawers with machine stitching, as at a and b, Fig. 35,
allowing a |-inch seam. Trim off the drawers portion to within
i inch of the seam, bring the seam allowance of the vest portion
over the raw edge, turn in a seam allowance, and whip it down
to the stitching, as at c, thus forming a standing-fell, or French-fell,
seam.

If a ready-to-wear vest is used, do not draw the gathering threads
up to a size to correspond with the vest, but leave them 2 to 3 inches
longer; then baste the drawers, with the raw edges underneath, to
the vest, stretching the latter the
necessary amount to have the vest
meet the size of the drawers. Stitch
on the edge of the vest, stretching as
you stitch; then overcast the raw
edges. This stretching is necessary
to allow for the stretching of the vest
when it is put on and taken off.

STRAIGHT-LINE COMBINATION

81. Description. — The upper por-
tion of the combination shown in Fig.
36 corresponds exactly to that de-
scribed in Art. 75 and illustrated by
Fig. 32. The lower part differs some-
what, chiefly in the fact that there is
no fulness, but there is also a difference
in cut, providing a concealed circular joining, which affords plenty of
ease so that the finished garment is comfortable and, at the same
time, achieves a slenderizing, straight-line effect. The trimming is
a neat, narrow, lace edging of firm quality and an applied bow.

Fig. 36

40 UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE § 4

82. Material and Pattern Requirements. — Compute the amount
of material for the vest, as directed in Art. 7 8, but allow less for
finishing if you copy the top finish in Fig. 36. For the drawers, you
will need 1 yard if the figure is average. The short figure will require

less, f or I yard, and
the tall figure more,
or li yards.
It is best to form a
pattern for the draw-
ers portion, because
of the necessity for
cutting two sections.

83. Drafting the
Drawers Pattern.

To form the pattern
illustrated in Fig. 37,
provide a piece of
^ 7 9 [ " paper measuring 18

inches by about 40

inches. With the wide edge toward you, place point a 1| inches
below the upper right-hand corner, as shown. Locate b to the
left of a one-fourth the hip measure plus 2 inches. Measuring
toward you, locate c below a, a distance equal to the length you
want the drawers portion. To the left of c, locate d a distance
equal to one-half the hip measure minus 4 inches. Directly above
d, a distance of 2i inches, locate e, at the same time drawing line de.
Then 2 inches to the right of d, locate /, and 1| inches to the right
of /, locate g.

At /, at right angles to the bottom edge, or a line connecting d
and c, draw a dotted line 2| inches long and letter its termination h.
Draw a second dotted line, 4 inches long, at right angles to cd at g,
making its termination i. Next, inches above b, locate /. Then
connect points a and b, and a and / with straight lines; j and e
with a line that curves so as to include i and h. Points e and d
have already been connected with a straight line.

Now fold the paper on line de, so that the marked lines are on top,
and cut the pattern carefully, cutting down from the top edge of the
under portion to a ; then through both thicknesses to / ; and then to e,
through b, i, and h. Now cut from d to c, unless these points

UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE

are on the edge of the paper, and finally, through the under layer,
back to a.

Separate the two thicknesses of paper and cut from a to 6, so as
to make the drawers slightly shorter in front than in back.

84. Cutting. — Cut the upper section as directed in Art. 78.
To cut the lower, or drawers, part, fold the material through the
center crosswise. Place the pattern so that line dc lies on the fold
and de is on a straight lengthwise thread. Cut around all edges,
allowing a f-inch seam, and cut through the fold dc, continuing to
the extreme edge.

85. Construction. — To make the drawers, join the curved seams,
making sure that the two front sections are together. Use a very
narrow French seam or a machine fell seam of moderate width
following the usual procedure. Join the sides in French seams; or,
if you prefer, leaA^e them open, finishing the edges as well as the
bottom with binding, as directed in Art. 62, or with a narrow hem,
lace edged.

For the lace finish, turn the hem in the usual way, making it J inch
wide when finished, and stitch it in place, as at a. Fig. 38. As a
trimming, whip a narrow lace edge in place, as at b. A lace of this

type, that is, one with a pointed edge, may have the corner finished
square, as at c ; in any case, the lace should be mitered carefully.

If you are making a vest, use the same kind of seams and edge
finish as you have chosen for the drawers. If the top does not fit
sufficiently snug, you will need to employ a casing and draw ribbon,
as described in Arts. 52 and 53.

42 UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE § 4

BRASSIERE-TOP COMBINATION

86. Nature and Use. — There is a certain type of figure, well-
developed, but muscular enough to appear well uncorseted, that will
find a combination such as is illustrated in Fig. 39 thoroughly satis-
factory for those occasions when the absence of shoulder straps is
desirable. Because there is no support over the shoulders, the bust
must be full enough to hold the garment up ; if it is not, it is best to

use a sheer shoulder strap such as
a double thickness of Georgette or
net with the edges picoted.

The upper part consists of a row
of lace and a row of insertion of a
firm mesh, joined together, fitted
closely to the figure, and strength-
ened by a net lining. Three strips
of elastic across the back provide
snugness without tightness. The
lower section, which is somewhat
full for ease, is merely step-in draw-
ers, cut longer at the top so that
they may meet the somewhat high
waist line of the brassiere, to which
they are joined to form a single
garment. Binding of self -fabric
finishes the lower edges of the
step-ins and the slashes at the sides, although a machine picot with
a narrow banding of lace might be preferred.

87. Material Requirements. — Of the lace, you will need an
amount equal to the bust measure, minus 6 inches, and a correspond-
ing amount of insertion, each at least 4 inches wide. Supply also
I yard of J-inch elastic and f yard of net.

For the drawers portion, you will need from Ij to If yards of
fabric, depending on your height, the shorter figure naturally requir-
ing less length. Because such an undergarment is designed pri-
marily for evening wear, crepe de Chine or another soft weave in
silk will be found most satisfactory.

88. Cutting the Step-in Section. — Follow the same plan of
cutting as described for the step-in section of the combination shown

Fig. 39

§ 4 UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE 43

in Fig. 32. Apply the same directions, having sufficient length in
your folded material to have the step-ins long enough to reach to a
point from 3 to 4 inches above the normal waist line, or from where
the brassiere ends to a point just above the knee.

89. Preparing the Combination for Fitting. — ^Join the lace to
the insertion with machine stitching, as at a, Fig. 40, narrowing the
lace at each end of the insertion, so that it appears as shown in the
back view. Fig. 39. Now place the brassiere section over the net
and cut a section of the net corresponding in shape to the lace, and
with a J-inch seam allowance entirely around it. Turn the seam
allowance so that the raw edge is between the lace and the net, and
so that its folded edge comes just to the edge of the lace. Sew the
two together across the top with small running-stitches, following
the scallops. Baste the two together on the remaining edges.

Now join the side seams of the step-ins to within 8 to 10 inches

Fig. 40

of the bottom and finish the cut edges Avith the exception of those
at the waist line, which are to be joined to the brassiere section.
Use bias strips of self-material in a matching or contrasting color
applied as a binding to finish the lower edges, following the method
described in Art. 6 2. Run a gathering thread around the top.

90. Fitting. — Careful fitting is required in order that the
brassiere may set properl}^ when on. Pin or baste the elastic strips

UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE

§4

•

in place, and then place the upper section of the garment around the
figure, adjusting the length of the elastic strips, if necessary, because
it is essential that the brassiere be secure and evidence no tendency
toward slipping down. After you have made sure that the top fits
well, pin darts in front to make the size of the garment at the waist
line more nearly the size of the figure. Make these darts as deep as
is necessary at the bottom, tapering them to nothing as they
approach the bust line.

At this time, slip the step-ins on, pinning them to the brassiere
and adjusting the fulness carefully, but leaving plenty of ease aqross
the back between the ends of the brassiere.

91. Finishing. — Remove the garment, separate the upper and
lower sections, and rip the bastings between the net and the lace
so that the darts may be stitched in separately. When stitching
the darts, be sure to have the seam allowance turned to the wrong
side in both cases. At this time, cut two strips of the material of
the drawers section IJ inches wide and 8 inches long. Stitch the
longer edges of each together, turn, and press. Through these, the
elastic that is used across the back is to be run. If you prefer, you
may use ribbon for these casings.

To provide a finish across the back of the drawers section between
the ends of the brassiere, attach a straight strip of material, wide
enough to form a casing for the elastic, to the upper edge across the
space you have allowed, as shown at b. Place the elastic c just above
and hem the free edge of the casing down over it, as at d. Slip the
drawers between the net and the lace of the brassiere section, and
place the silk-covered elastic straps in place, too, so that one end of
each comes between the net and the lace, as at e and /. Finish the
other ends by turning in the raw edges and overhanding them
together.

92. After the lace and net are basted together ready for stitch-
ing, prepare a narrow strip of the silk f inch wide. Turn in all raw
edges and baste it in place directly on the edge, as shown, to provide
a foundation to which the hooks may be sewed. .Beginning to stitch
at g, through the thicknesses of the stay strip as well as the net and
the lace, continue down to the joining of the brassiere and step-ins,
then entirely around the joining, back to a corresponding point on
the other side, just above e. Machine stitching is necessary because
of the need for firmness, and especiall}^ to secure the elastic strips

•

§ 4 UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE 45

e and /. Hem the inner edge of the stay strip to the lace and net by
hand, as at k.

Attach an eye on each end of the elastic strips and a hook in corre-
sponding position on the stay strip, as vshown. The addition of a
small ribbon bow in a constrasting color or a cluster of tiny flowers in
pastel tints makes an attractive finish for the front.

MANNISH UNDERGARMENT

93. Nature and Use. — The popularity of an undergarment
such as is illustrated in Fig. 41 may be directly traced to the general
acceptance of tailored and sports clothes for daytime wear. The
unrelieved plainness of outer garments has created a demand for
underwear duplicating this feature in cut and finish, and because
of this severity, they have a particular
appeal by direct contrast with the
femininity of their wearers.

The garment illustrated features the
same design and construction details as
one of the popular styles worn by men
and boys, with the exception of the
finish of the top, which is naturally
cut lower than a garment intended to
be worn by a man. The top is finished
with a hem casing through which rib-
bon or lingerie tape is run, while the
opening at the front makes the com-
bination easy to put on and take off.
The lapped back is a comfortable
feature, while the cut and finish give
perfect freedom for all sorts of athletic
activities. An undergarment of this
type is particularly comfortable for the uncorseted figure, although
it can be worn satisfactorily either under or over a corset.

Fig. 41

94. Material and Pattern Requirements. — Supply a special
pattern for this combination, for which, if your figure is average,
you will require 2 J yards of 36- or 40-inch material and J yard of a
knitted fabric for the waistband at the back. If several garments
are to be made, and a cotton knitted fabric is not available, it is a

UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE

§4

good plan to purchase a separate vest of a serviceable weight, and
cut this in strips for the purpose. Of course, such a finish is not a
necessity, as the back waist line may consist of a simple seam joining
between the upper and the lower sections, as illustrated in the upper
back view, Fig. 41.

The ideal fabric for this athletic combination is a cross-bar cotton
known as pajama cloth, while in silk, radium is a satisfactory choice,
as is also Italian silk with back insert of silk vesting. The latter
combination duplicates the material of the expensive ready-made
garments of this type.

95. Cutting. — Place the center front of the pattern piece along
a cut or a selvage edge, making allowance for finishing, and arrange

the center back of the waist portion
on a fold. Cut the knitted section
2i inches wide and long enough to
reach from one under-arm seam to the
other, across the back, cutting so that
the ribs run crosswise, and in this way
providing the proper "give" for the
movements of the body. Cut the
shoulder straps of a double thickness
of cloth, and plan to have the edges
finished with a picot, made by cutting
machine hemstitching in two.

96. Construction. — Join the inside
leg seams first ; then prepare to finish the
opening, which is straight down the
front to a certain point and then curves
around and up the back. First prepare
two straight facing strips, each 1 inch
wide and long enough to reach from the
top of the garment to that section of
the front where the cut edge curves. For this curved section, which
extends around to the waist-line finish in the back, supply two
fitted facings of the same width as the facing strips by using the
pattern as a guide and cutting a 1-inch strip on exactly the same grain
as the edge of the garment itself when it was cut from the pattern .

Join the straight and the shaped sections of each facing piece
together in a plain seam, as at a, Fig. 42, having the raw edges of

Fig. 42

§ 4 UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE 47

the seams on opposite sides, so that one strip will finish the left and
the other the right side of your combination. Attach the facing
strip to the garment in a plain seam, as at 6 ; then turn the free edge
over to the wrong side with the seam exactly on the edge, as at c,
and, turning in the raw edge once, baste it in place and stitch, as
at d.

97. Now lap the back opening below the waist line the amount
indicated on your pattern and join it to the knitted strip, which in
turn is joined to the upper-back section of the combination. Use
fiat-fell seams for these joinings. If you are not using the knitted
material, a single flat-fell seam will provide a satisfactory^ joining.

Next, join the side seams. Then finish the upper and the lower
edges of the combination with J-inch hems. Attach the shoulder
straps when basting the hem at the top, so that one stitching can be
made to hold the hem and the shoulder straps too, as described in
Art. 53.

Complete the combination by making horizontal buttonholes,
placing them so that one is just below the top, and the others are
spaced 2 inches apart, as far down as is necessary. Make these
buttonholes according to the directions in Arts. 3 5 to 39, with the
exception of making them crosswise and with a bar at both ends,
instead of vertical with a fan finish at one end. Attach the buttons
to correspond with the buttonholes. Then run the lingerie tape or
ribbon through the top casing to finish the garment.

DRAWERS

ADVANTAGES AND NATURE

98. While the one-piece undergarment, such as the envelope
chemise or the combination, enjoys deserved favor, there are many
women who prefer a separate vest and drawers or bloomers, espe-
cially those women who find a brassiere a necessity. When properly
made and fitted, drawers or bloomers w411 be found to 'be quite as
satisfactory a foundation as either of the other garments, while the
feeling of comfort that is to be had from wearing just what has the
most appeal should not be overlooked.

99. Drawers may be straight, that is, cut without flare and
fitted smoothly over the hips into a waistband, or circular, with width

48 UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE § 4

at the bottom, but still the required smoothness over the hips.
Drawers may also be open or closed, the former that type in which
both edges of the crotch are finished separately, the latter that type
in which both edges are sewed together. Also, they may be gathered
at the knee to form bloomers, a satisfactory substitute for a petti-
coat for many women when worn under a cloth dress. Then, too,
there are step-ins, resembling the lower part of step-in chemises.

100. Materials. — Because of the somewhat closer fit of drawers
and bloomers, a sturdy fabric is to be preferred for these two types;
so batiste, voile, the finer grades of nainsook, Georgette, or similar
weaves should be set aside for the looser-fitting undergarments and
preference given to long-cloth, cotton crepe, cross-bar, radium,
crepe de Chine, silk Jersey, or wash satin.

PLAIN DRAWERS

101. Description. — The drawers illustrated in Fig. 43 are of a
standard type, simple to make and permitting of either an open or a

closed finish. They are so
cut that the lower edge is
on a straight thread of the
material, making it pos-
sible to finish them with
a hand-hemstitched hem.
For service undergarments,
however, machine hem-
stitching or a plain ma-
chine-stitched hem is a
wiser choice for the finish.

102. Material and Pat-
tern Requirements. — Pro-
vide a regulation drawers
pattern, of the proper size,
with a shaped waistband,,
and IJ yards of material if your figure is of small or average size.
Supply also 3 yards of lace or embroidery edging if you care to have
trimming.

103. Cutting. — Place the pattern so that the center side, as
well as the bottom, is on a straight thread of the materia]. Cut

UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE

the waistband double with a seam at the center front and the center
back or at both sides, making the band narrow or wide as you prefer.
If wide, it might measure 2^ inches, finished, at its widest point and
form a yoke. If narrow, it should be no less than f inch throughout,
finished, for a very narrow band is
better fitted at the seams but not p"^ —

shaped at the top and the bottom.

Fig. 44

Fig. 45

Before taking apart the material that is cut out for the drawers,
notch the center front with one notch and the center back with
two notches, or according to the pattern directions, so that there will
be no danger of finishing both leg portions for one side. When there
is no right or wrong to the material, this mistake might be made and
cause much annoyance. Another way in which to avoid such an
occurrence when the right and the wrong sides of material are
difficult to distinguish, is to mark the right side of each leg portion by
placing a pin in it.

104. Making the Drawers Closed. — First, stitch up the leg
seams, using a flat-fell finish ; then prepare to finish the crotch. If
the drawers are to be closed, proceed to stitch them together, as
shown in Fig. 44. Before stitching, however, pin the edges together
so that the seams in the leg portions will meet exactly, as at a. By
slipping one edge back, as at b, and allowing enough material to
turn over the other raw edge, as at c, you will save time in not having

50 UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE § 4

to trim off the seam for the fiat fell. After you have joined the leg
portion, turn and stitch the seam the second time, as at d, to give
a flat finish.

Next, on the left side, put in the flat-stitched placket, as described
in Arts. 2 1 and 2 2 ; then if you wish to finish the top with the
straight band illustrated, make it so that it will be, when finished,

Fig. 46

f inch wide. Stitch one edge of the band to the upper edge of the
drawers, wrong sides together, and the seam allowance to the right
side; then turn the free edge and the ends of the band in a seam's
width, bring the free edge over the raw edges of the seam, and stitch
it down. Stitch along the upper turned edge also for firmness.

105. Making the Drawers Open. — If the drawers are to be
open, extend the flat-fell seam from the top down about 4 to 6 inches;
then finish each seam edge separately with a bias facing, J inch wide
when finished, as in Fig. 45. Finish the top with a narrow band or
apply a shaped yoke that will open in the center back.

106. Applying the Yoke. — If you are using a yoke for a top
finish, first stitch its upper edge and both ends, as at a, Fig. 46; then
clip the corner, as at 5, and turn the yoke with its stitched side in.

§4 UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE 51

Roll the material back as close to the stitching as possible, as this is
essential for the sake of neatness. Then crease the edge very care-
fully and apply the yoke to the drawers portion, keeping the center
front of the yoke in line with the center front of the drawers. If you
stitch the yoke twice all the way around where it joins the drawers,
as shown, as well as its upper edge and in the back, it will be stronger
and stand strain or wear much better.

107. Finishing. — Finish the bottom of the drawers with a
hand- or machine-hemstitched, or a machine-stitched hem, attach-
ing a narrow edge for decoration if you care to do so. A narrow
binding of a contrasting color makes an effective finish also. In this
case, slash the side of the drawers up for 4 to 6 inches and continue
the binding up this slash to relieve the severity of the finish. To
complete the garment, work a single buttonhole in the waistband
or two in the yoke, and attach the buttons securely.

DRAWERS WITH FULNESS

108. When the figure is slender and gathers around the waist
line are not objectionable, fulness may be introduced in drawers, as
shown in the upper back view. Fig. 43.

The method of making is the same as that described for plain
drawers except that the top is finished with a casing through which
elastic may be run.

109. Making the Casing.— With the drawers completed to the
top finish, make a |-inch lurn at the top and stitch directly on the
edge of the first turn for about
f inch, from a to b, Fig. 47,
having this small, stitched space
at the center back or close to
one of the side seams. Now
turn the hem, making it 1 inch
deep, baste, and stitch in place,
with the exception of the small
space, which was previously
stitched and which is to be left open so that the elastic may be
readily inserted and removed when the garment is laundered.
Fasten all ends of thread carefully, especially at each side of the
opening in the casing.

Fig. 47

52 UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE § 4

Complete the garment by inserting the elastic, which should be
cut 2 to 3 inches smaller than the waist measure. To make the
elastic easy to remove, finish it with a hook and eye of medium size,
securely attached.

STEP-INS

110. Description. — Drawers of the step-in variety are shown in
Fig. 48. In appearance, this type of drawers is similar to the lower
part of a step-in chemise, except that they extend to the normal
waist line. A finish consisting of a casing, through which elastic is

run, is used at this place,
enabling the wearer to ad-
just the garment without
fastening, and providing a
finish that simplifies the
making. The bottom is
finished with a fitted facing
that may be cut of a con-
trasting color and thus
made decorative as well as
useful.

111. Material Require-
ments.— Any favored lin-
gerie material may be used
for step-ins, for they are
roomy enough not to require a firm fabric even for the greatest ser-
vice. The most used materials are voile, cross-bar, cotton crepe,
radium, silk Jersey, crepe de Chine, and wash satin.

To determine the amount of material needed, measure from the
normal waist line down to that point above the knee to which you
wish the step-ins to reach, usually about 21 inches. Multiply this
amount by 2 and add 6 to 8 inches, 2} inches of this amount for the
casing and the remainder for the joining piece, or flap, between the
front and the back.

112. Cutting. — As a guide in cutting, follow the directions in
Art. 77 with two exceptions. The line ac should equal a measure-
ment taken from the waist line to the length you wish the step-ins
to be, and the distance from a to 5 should equal one-fourth the hip
measure plus J inch, while the points c, f, and g should be located

•

§ 4 UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE 53

1 inch from the crosswise fold, rather than 2 inches, thus providing
less space between the back and the front.

To save material, you may cut the fitted facing in sections. This
facing should be If inches wide.

113. Construction. — Use French seams for joining the side
openings, extending them from the waist line down to within 8 inches
of the bottom.

Finish the lower edge and the side openings with a fitted facing,
cut so that there is a seam in it in line with the side seam of the
drawers. Stitch together the sections of the fitted facing, so the

Fig. 49

seam will appear as at a, Fig. 49, after the facing has been applied.
Stitch the facing entirely around both leg openings of the step-ins,
as at 6, bring it over to the wrong side, turn in the free edge once, as
at c, and stitch it, as at d. If you wish, you may have this facing
of a contrasting color and turned to the right side.

To finish the top of the step-ins, prepare a casing as described in
Art. 109, and run an elastic through this.

BLOOMERS

114. Description. — Bloomers, as shown in Fig. 50, like drawers,
are cut to follow the outline of the figure quite closely. Because of
the resulting increase of strain on the garment, there must also be an

UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE

§4

increase in the firmness of material and seam finishes, just as in the
case of drawers. Bloomers are finished with an elastic at the waist
line and also at the knee or directly below it, but otherwise their cut
and finish are quite the same as for drawers.

115. Material Requirements. — The average figure will require
IJ to 2 yards of material, depending on the length of the bloomers.
Any of the firmer lingerie fabrics will cut to advantage, as, for
example, cotton crepe, cross-bar, sateen, satinette, crepe de Chine,
silk Jersey, radium, or crepe-back satin.

Supply a length of f -inch elastic equal to the waist measurement
minus 3 inches, and a length of narrower elastic for the finish at the

2 inches when the pattern piece is pinned to the material. Cut the
garment in the usual way, allowing a generous seam.

In all commercial patterns, there are stay pieces for the crotch
seams. These are quite necessary parts because of the need for
reinforcement where the garment receives the most wear.

If you prefer, the fulness on the back section may be omitted
and the leg portion cut so that there is no seam at the center side.
The back of the garment in the illustration was cut with the center
back on a fold and seams to the sides.

117. Construction. — Turn in the outer edges of the reinforcing
pieces and stitch them in place; then join the crotch seam, following
Art. 104. Next, join the inner leg seams, using a French seam or

knee. Usually about 1 inch
smaller than the measurement
above or below the knee is about
right, for the elastic should be
tight enough to stay in place,
but not so tight that it will
bind.

Fig. 50

116. Cutting. — A regulation
bloomer pattern can be made to
duplicate Fig. 50, by slashing
the back section at about the
hip line from the side seam
toward the center back and
spreading this slash so that the
space between measures about

§ 4 UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE 55

flat-fell finish ; and finally join the outer leg seams. If you have used
fulness, this, of course, should be adjusted first, by spreading it over a
distance of 4 or 5 inches by the use of two gathering threads. In this
case, finish the side seams with French fells, as described in Art. 8 0 ;
otherwise, a plain French seam will be satisfactory. Finish the top
and the bottoms of each leg with a casing hem, as directed in Art.
109, and insert the elastic.

If you are using silk Jersey, draw the material taut as you stitch,
because if you do not you will find that, with w^ear, your material
will stretch, whereas the stitching does not, and a ripped seam will be
the usual result. ■

Cut a pocket inches wide by 4 inches deep, with the lower edge
rounded off, turn a J-inch hem in its upper edge, and stitch it.
Now make a i-inch turn around the other edges and baste it in
place; then baste the pocket in a convenient position on the right
front of the bloomers. Replace the basting with stitching, staying
the ends carefully so that there will be no danger of the pocket
ripping down.

BRASSIERES

STYLES AND MATERIALS

118. Styles and Use. — The word brassiere is derived from the
French word meaning to bind, to restrain, and such is the object of
the garment that has come to be an all-important item of apparel in
the wardrobe of many women. The brassiere may have a straight
top or a rounded neck line, but in either case its chief purpose is to
confine the bust and to give an appearance of firmness and trimness
to the figure under the arms and across the back as well. The true
brassiere opens in the back or under the arm, although, for those
who find it more convenient, a center-front opening is provided.

The general use of the brassiere has been brought about by the
adoption of the low-bust corset, which requires the wearing of a
confining band so that the upper part of the figure will appear trim
especially when a one-piece dress is worn. At the same time, how-
ever, care must be taken that the brassiere is quite large enough, for
there is nothing that makes a woman more uncomfortable than the
wearing of too small a garment of this kind. The requisites are
ease and firmness, without strain, meaning that the brassiere must

•

UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE

be cut from a proper material, carefully fitted, and accurately finished
for the proper effect.

119. Materials. — Very firmly woven materials are required for
brassieres. If garments that will give real service are wanted, you
will find muslin of good quality to be a very satisfactory fabric, but
coutil, which is woven especially for corsets and brassieres and may
be had in plain, brocaded, and novelty effects and in various weights,
is equally as serviceable and, besides, is more attractive in appear-
ance. Sateen is another cotton fabric that may be employed. For
occasional wear, brassieres of firmly woven wash satin, glove silk,
taffeta, ribbon, lace, and net are preferred.

CORSET-COVER BRASSIERE

120. As with a combination, so with a brassiere; the active
woman finds the shoulder strap an annoyance and prefers a garment

with no tendency toward
slipping off the shoul-
ders. For her, a garment
that may be said to be a
combination of brassiere
and corset cover, such as
is illustrated in Fig. 51,
is an ideal choice. The
shape of the neck line
makes the garment a
practical one for service
and comfort, while the
front opening is a feature
that will save precious
moments for the busy
housewife and mother.
The best choice in material for the corset-cover brassiere is
muslin of a firm quality. This results in a garment made at very little
cost, which is another advantage when the finished article is intended
to emphasize practicability rather than beauty.

121. Material and Pattern Requirements. — For the corset-
cover brassiere, you will find f yard of yard-wide material plenty for
cutting. Supply, also, 2| to 2J yards of edging, 6 to 8 buttons, and

§ 4 UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE 57

a pattern that provides for a center-front closing and has seams at
the side front, under arm, and center back. If the person for whom
the brassiere is intended has a figure that tapers decidedly to the
waist line, you will need a pattern having side-back seam lines also,
so as to provide additional lines for fitting.

122. Cutting. — Because a garment cut on the cross of the
material is extra firm, place the pattern pieces so that the bust line
of the side and the back sections is over a straight, lengthwise thread
and the waist line of the front section is over a lengthwise thread.
Such a plan will provide a garment that, when put together, will be
as strong as possible and will not stretch.

123. Construction. — Before joining the sections of the brassiere
permanently, try the garment on while basted. Adjtist the seams,
taking in or letting out where necessar^^ Give special attention to
the fitting of the armhole, as it should be comfortable and yet fit up
close enough to give protection; also, take pains to fit the brassiere
in close at the waist so that it may retain its position on the figure and
not draw up.

After fitting, trim the seam edges evenly and finish them with
narrow fiat-fell seams. Now baste the embroidery edge around the
top and armholes with its right side to the right side of the garment
and the raw edges even. Over this basting line, baste a bias strip
of self-fabric or a prepared bias binding with its raw edge in line
with the raw edge of the embroidery and the brassiere. Replace
the bastings with stitching; then, turning the bias over to the wrong
side, baste it fiat and stitch it in place.

Apply a f-inch facing to the bottom, following Art. 60 and mak-
ing the final stitching by machine. Finish the fronts with J-inch
hems, if hems have been allowed on your pattern ; if not, make use of
a J-inch bias or straight facing.

Complete the garment by working several horizontal buttonholes
in the right front, following the directions in Art. 97, and by sew-
ing buttons to correspond on the left side of the opening.

PLAIN BRASSIERE

124. Description. — The plain brassiere is intended primarily
for service, so it is usually made up untrimmed, although, if the
addition of firmly woven laces or embroidery is wanted, there is no

58 UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE § 4

objection to their use. In almost all cases, however, a garment
similar to that shown in Fig. 52 will be found thoroughly practical,
since the method of making insures a correct and accurate fit, and
at the same time permits of development in any appealing fabric,
making it possible to have a service garment or a very luxurious one,
depending on the material chosen.

This garment is formed of a straight strip of material, provided
with shoulder straps to hold it in place. It is fitted to the figure by
well-placed darts and its opening is directly in the center back, leav-
ing the front smooth.

125. Material Requirements and Cutting. — By planning to cut
your brassieres so that the length of the garment is on the cross of
the material, you will avoid the necessity for seams in the garment,
and also add to its strength and wearing qualities. Provided you
do this, purchase a length of material equal to your bust measure-
ment, plus 2 to 3 inches for finishing. Then you will have enough for

two brassieres.

If you prefer to make the garment
on the length, you will require twice
the length from just under the arm
to a low waist line ; if your bust mea-
surement is less than the width of
the fabric, you will require only one
length. If you need two lengths,
you will effect a saving by purchas-
ing three, in this way supplying
sufficient material for two garments.

Supply also, for each brassiere,
from j to 1 yard of firmly woven tape
or ribbon for shoulder straps, if you
do not wish to use self -fabric ; also
1 piece of bias tape for finishing, and from f to | yard of hook-
and-eye tape, depending on the length of your brassiere.

126. Fitting. — Cut a straight section or two sections as wide
as the measurement previously taken. Join the two sections
together with a flat-fell seam, if a seam is necessary. Now place
this straight band around the figure with the opening in the center
back and proceed to fit it by means of darts accurately and cor-
rectly placed.

§ 4 UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE 59

Begin at the bottom and pin in a dart, 6 to 7 inches long and from
J to 1 inch deep, on each side of the center front and about 3 or 4
inches from it. These darts are clearly shown in Fig. 53. Repeat
this process in the back, making the darts somewhat longer and as
deep as is necessary to have the back smooth and fiat. If either the
front or the back darts want to curve slightly, allow them to do so,
remembering always that perfection of fit should be your aim.

A dart at the under arm on both sides
will help to hold the brassiere more
closely to the figure, but when the
under-arm line is quite straight, this
extra fitting will not be necessary.

127. You will usually find that
the top of your brassiere fits better
after you have taken a dart at the }^ '(
center front, as is also shown in Fig. 53.
A slight shaping at the top will be an
impro*vement, too; therefore, starting
2 inches from the center front, trim off a
small amount on a very gradual slant
to the center back, making the differ-
ence in the depth of the center back and
the center front no more than 1 inch.

Determine the position and the length of the shoulder straps by
pinning them in place. Remove the brassiere, making sure that,
as you remove the pins at the center back, you replace them in
exactly the same position, in this way retaining the proper line for
the center-back closing.

128. Putting the Garment Together. — Turn the darts to the
wrong side and stitch with a plain seam, tapering the depth of the
seam gradually to its end so that there will be no bulge at the ter-
mination of the dart. Leave the thread ends sufficiently long and
fasten these securely, since this is a necessary precaution to prevent
ripping. The excess material in the dart will not need to be trimmed
away unless the effect is bulky.

To finish the top and the bottom of the brassiere, use either a
prepared bias facing with the edges already turned or a facing that
you cut and fold yourself. Pin the shoulder straps in the positions
determined during the fitting, so that their raw edges are in line witli

•

UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE

§4

those of the top of the brassiere. Then baste the bias facing on a
true Hne, with its right side to the right side of the brassiere and the
shoulder straps between the two. Stitch accurately; then turn the
bias to the wrong side and stitch again.

129. Reinforcing the Brassiere. — To add strength to the
brassiere, you may apply a row of the bias tape from the back dart on
one side, around the front to the back dart on the other side. Place
this about 2 J to 3 inches from the lower edge, or in approximately
the position of the normal waist line, and stitch the tape on both
edges.

130. Finishing the Closing. — You are now ready to finish the
closing and to apply the hook-and-eye tape. If there is no mate-
rial to spare beyond the center-back lines, prepare a facing of firm
muslin or long-cloth. Cut two straight strips of the facing fabric,
IJ inches wide and equal in length to the closing. Stitch these
strips to the brassiere, right sides together and so placed that the
line of stitching will come exactly in the line you have marked for
the center back. Now turn the facing back to the wrong side, turn
in the raw edge, and baste it down.

Baste the hook-and-eye tape in place, having that portion contain-
ing the hooks on the right side and that with the eyes on the left.

Baste the tape with its inner edge in
line with the inner edge of the facing
tape so that one stitching will hold both
and so that its outer edge comes just
inside of the turned edge of the brassiere.
Then, when the garment is fastened on
the figure, the two center-back lines will
just come together.

Make sure that the fastenings match
perfectly; that is, that the first hook
and the first eye are placed exactly the
same distance from the top on both
sides. Stitch on the inner edges of the
tape and fasten the ends of thread securely. Turn in the raw
edges of the hook-and-eye tape at the top and bottom and overhand
them to the garment to make a neat, secure finish.

131. When a brassiere is worn without a .slip, it is better to
plan for a lap at the center back. To do this, provide at least

•

§4

UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE

1| inches extra on the right side, finish the edges with a hem or facing,
and apply the hook-and-eye tape, placing the strip containing the
hooks its width plus 1 1 inches back from the right edge, as shown in
Fig. 54. The inner edge of the strip containing the eyes is placed in
line with the inner edge of the hem on the left side, a single row of
stitching on both right and left sides holding the hems and the tape
in place.

132. Description. — When the form is slight, not requiring a
confining band so much as a slight support, the brassiere shown in
Fig. 55 is appropriate. It is made of two overlapping, triangular
sections of material held together across the back by a length of

elastic, which will provide a snug fit and at the same time give plenty
of ease. There is no opening in this brassiere, since it may be slipped
over the head readily because of the elastic back; but, if preferred,
you may fasten with a hook and eye as the brassiere-top combination
in Fig. 39 is fastened.

The method of making provides a means of accurate fitting, which,
of course, is quite as necessary in a brassiere of this type as in the
wider sort previously discussed.

133. Material Requirements. — Any of the firmer cottons, such
as long-cloth, fine muslin, and coutil, are appropriate for this gar-
ment, while in silk radium, crepe de Chine, firm satin, and silk Jersey
are good selections, silk Jersey, of course, being less confining than
any of the other fabrics.

BANDEAU BRASSIERE

Fig 55

UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE

Of any of these materials, you will need only J yard. You will
require also J yard of |-inch elastic, and 1 to IJ yards of 1-inch
ribbon.

134. Making a Pattern. — To form a pattern for cutting, measure
along a straight edge of paper a distance equal to one-half the bust
measure, marking points a and h at the extremities, as in Fig. 56.

to form a triangle.
To use this pattern as a cutting guide, place line cd on a straight
thread of the material. Cut two sections exactly alike.

135. Construction. — First of all, bind the two shorter sides of
both sections. Use a bias of self- or contrasting material, following
the directions in Art. 6 2 and having the finish about f inch wide
when completed. Now lap the two sections about 8 inches and pin
securely. After covering the elastic with a ribbon casing as
described in Art. 91, pin it across the back.

Now slip the garment on and fit the lower edge by darts, just under
the bust, two on each side usually providing a smooth-fitting effect.
If the brassiere seems a little loose, lap the front more and shorten
the length of the elastic; if tight, loosen at both of these points.
Attach the shoulder ribbons by pinning, to be sure of their length and
position.

After removing the brassiere, stitch in the darts and trim off the
ends of the ribbon shoulder straps and the ribbon-covered elastic.
Now apply a bias facing across the bottom of the garment, with
machine stitching, having it about \ inch wide, finished, so that it
will cover and conceal any raw edges of ribbon that there may be at
the back. Slip-stitch the overlapped sections together along the
binding, and sew the shoulder straps on in front, finishing the center
front with a tiny flower or a small ribbon bow.

Fig. 56

At the center of this line,
place point c. At this point,
draw a line perpendicular
to ah and 6 to 7 inches long,
and mark the termination
of this line d. Now con-
nect point d with a and h

§ 4 UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE 63

BANDEAU CORSET

136. Description. — A variation of the brassiere, which makes
also a satisfactory substitute for the corset when the figure is slender,
is called a bandeau corset, an ex-
ample of which is shown in Fig. 57.
This garment is cut long enough to
confine the hips slightly and also
to provide a foundation to which
the hose supporters may be
attached. The bandeau is rather
closely fitted, with gussets of woven
elastic placed below the waist line
at both sides of the front and back
sections, giving ease and at the
same time confining the figure so
as to effect the required trimness.

137. Material and Pattern
Requirements. — Because of the
snugness of fit of this garment, it
is essential that a firm material be
used for it. Therefore, you will find either coutil or muslin the
best choice. One of the heavier wash satins might be chosen, pro-
vided a more elaborate effect is desired.

The average figure will require If yards of material, | yard of
hook-and-eye tape, 2J to 3 yards of bias seam binding, IJ yards
of 3-inch elastic or f yard of a 10- to 12-inch width, also 2 pairs of
garters. As a cutting guide, provide a regulation bandeau -corset
pattern consisting of four pieces; the front, the back, and the two
under-arm sections.

138. Cutting. — Place the center back and the center front on a
fold and the center of the under-arm sections on a straight crosswise
thread, making ample seam allowances. Cut two shoulder straps
2 J inches wide and 15 inches long. If you are using the narrow
elastic, cut it into sixteen sections, four 4 inches long, four 3 J inches
long, four 2i inches long, and four Ij inches long. For a taller
figure, five pieces will be necessary in each gusset, as shown in Fig. 57 ;
for a short figure, only three, as illustrated in Fig. 58, will be
needed.

64 UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE § 4

139. Preparation for Fitting.— Prepare four wedge-shaped sec-
tions of elastic by cutting the wide elastic or by joining the required
number of narrower pieces. To join these, overhand, as at a,
Fig. 58, a 3j-inch strip to each 4-inch strip, a 2|-inch strip to
each 3|-inch strip, and so on. Do not take the overhanding-
stitches too tight, as you will not wish them to break when the
elastic stretches.

Now prepare the shoulder straps by turning in one long edge
1 inch, as at a, Fig. 59. Then turn the other long edge in J inch, as

.1*

Fig. 59

at b, making both turns to the wrong side of the material. Now bring
that side with the J-inch turn over the wider turn and stitch through
the center, as at c.

Baste the seams of the bandeau, with the exception of the left-
front seam, with small stitches and rather heavy thread, inserting
the elastic gussets at the bottom in the side seams both front and
back. Baste the garters in place, too.

140. Fitting. — Slip the garment on and pin the closing accurately
its entire length. Since a bandeau must be close-fitting, you
may be required to rip each seam separately to adjust it so that
the effect will be one of smoothness and the garment will fit without

Fig. 58

•

§ 4 UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE 65

a wrinkle. Take care, however, not to emphasize the curve of the
figure at the waist line too much in fitting. Adjust the shoulder
straps at this time, too, so that their length and position will be
correct.

Remove the garment, replacing the pins at the side opening so
that you will have the proper guide line for finishing.

141. Inserting the Gussets. — Use flat-fell seams for finishing
the seams down to the elastic gussets, having both stitchings come
on the right side of the garment, as at 6, Fig. 58. In order to provide
a finished edge on the right side at the gussets, clip the underneath
seam allowance just where the edge begins to slant and turn it to
the wrong side. Now baste the elastic gusset in place with its lower
edge a seam's width above the bottom of the garment and stitch along
the two turned edges of the seam, as at c and d, to hold it in position.
Finish the raw edges underneath by fine, close overcasting-stitches.

142. Finishing the Top and Bottom. — Now turn up the raw
edge of the bottom and baste the garters in position. Baste and
stitch a strip of bias seam binding over the raw edges, continuing it
to the inner stitching of the flat-fell seam that holds the elastic gusset
in place. Finish the raw edge of the elastic, as at ^, with overcast-
ing-stitches; then stitch on both edges of this bias facing, as at/
and g.

Finish the top in the same manner, basting the shoulder straps in
place after turning the raw edge of the top, as explained in Art.
128. Then when the bias is applied, the stitching necessary to
hold it will hold the shoulder straps, too.

143. Finishing the Side. — As a finish for the side opening, turn
back the right edge once, baste the strip containing the hooks of the
hook-and-eye tape so that the raw edge is under it and the edge of
the tape comes just to the edge of the turn. Turn the raw edge of
the left front, including the elastic, to the right side and baste the
remaining strip of the hook-and-eye tape over it. Stitch by hand
or by machine on both edges of both strips of tape, as well as across
both ends, which are first turned in, so that the finish will be secure.

66 UNDERWEAR AND LINGERIE § 4

EXAMINATION QUESTIONS

(1) What qualities are essential in lingerie materials?

(2) What materials are most suitable for lingerie?

(3) What is the advantage of purchasing material for several undergarments
at one time?

(4) What measurements are necessary to cut the camisole-top chemise shown
in Fig. 10?

(5) How much material is necessary to develop the camisole-top chemise?

(6) What advantage does the round-neck chemise have over a camisole-top
garment?

(7) Why is it necessary to stretch silk Jersey material when stitching it?

(8) (a) Why should a brassiere be cut crosswise of the material? (b) How
should the pattern pieces of a brassiere be placed on the material?

(9) Make and send to us for inspection a sampler of the French seam, as
shown in Fig. 2.

(10) Submit a sampler showing the method of finishing a side dart, as shown
in Fig. 30.

•

CONTENTS

Page

Advantages of Making Underwear 1

Chemises — Nature of Chemises 7 6

Straight Chemise 7

Camisole-Top Chemise 14

Godet Chemise 19

Camisole-Top Chemise for Large Figure 22

Round-Neck Chemise 27

Side-Dart Chemise 29

Combinations — Nature of Combinations '35

Step-in Combination 35

Straight-Line Combination 39

Brassiere-Top Combination 45

Mannish Undergarment 45

Drawers — Advantages and Nature 47

Plain Drawers 48

Drawers With Fulness 51

Step-ins 52

Bloomers 53

Brassieres — Styles and Materials 55

Corset-Cover Brassiere 56

Plain Brassiere 57

Bandeau Brassiere 61

Bandeau Corset 63

89943

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